In between the two dark caviars on the sampler plate (the sturgeon is jet black, the paddlefish dark gray) is vivid orange roe of rainbow trout, from the Sunburst Trout Company of Canton, N.C. At just $16.50 for a 2-ounce jar, this is the best value of the three, with a bright, briny flavor that is balanced enough to enjoy alone – though its better on a toast point, since it’s still no beluga. It has a most festive mouthfeel, as well – the eggs roll around like little jewels on the tongue before they pop. Some people find the color garish, says Moonen, who is especially enthusiastic about this product. “But if the lights were to go out and I gave you a spoonful of this, it would blow your mind.”

Ultimately, it’s all about changing public perception. “Just like we started creating great wines in California, we’re going to be producing great caviar. Forget what you’ve heard – take a more intellectual approach. What we’ve got is a great quality product that’s finally coming into its own.”